Part 2
Time to finally finish this project, which I started over a year ago. My progress on this car has stalled as I have been contemplating how to model the windows. The original double-hung side windows on the prototype were replaced at some point with sealed windows that are slightly smaller than the original window openings. My initial thought for modeling them was to glaze the full window openings on the car prior to painting and mask off the glass areas. However, I feared that the paint might bleed under the masking tape and ruin the windows, so I decided to paint the car first and install the windows later. At the same time I painted the car, I also painted some white label stock to be used later to make the replacement window frames but left the details of how to do that for later. Well, later is now.
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| Nothing fancy here, just plain white labels from Target painted red. |
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| I tried a few other ideas for making the windows before settling on this method. First, I made a brass template of the window area. I eyeballed the dimensions from prototype photos; the template is 1/4" tall and 3/16" wide. I rounded the corners with a file. |
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| Next, I attached the template to the painted labels using a small bit of double-sided tape. Then I carefully traced around the template with my hobby knife. Being right-handed, I found it easiest to go clockwise around the template. After finishing each window, I moved the template to a new location and repeated the process. |
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| I definitely got better at this with practice. Note the improvement from my earlier attempts on the left to the later ones on the right. I learned to use a very light touch with the knife, especially on the first pass around the template. I found I needed to make at least 3 passes around the template for each window. |
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| I cut out each window frame, leaving about 1/8" or so of label around the perimeter, and removed the label from the backing. Then I carefully colored the cut edge black with an ultra-fine-tipped Sharpie so you wouldn't see the white label material around the window. |
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| Next I stuck the label onto a piece of 0.005" clear styrene. Using my knife and a steel straightedge, I carefully trimmed around the window until it fit snugly into the window opening on the car. I found it easiest to trim the window to the correct width first, then trim the top, and finally trim the bottom. |
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| For an adhesive, I applied Microscale Kristal Klear around the inside of the window opening with a toothpick, then carefully set the window in place. |
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| One down, three to go. |
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| All windows installed! |
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| The underframe has been patiently waiting since last fall for the body to be completed. I sprayed the underframe black with the ladders, handrails, and brake wheels in place, then came back later and brush-painted the brake wheels and corner handrails white. Right as I was about to mount the body on the underframe, I noticed that I had neglected the white safety stripes on the steps. |
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| I felt I had a 0% chance of neatly brush-painting the white safety stripes, so I went back to the same labels I used for the window frames. While I did brush-paint the bottom steps, I used thin strips of the labels for the remaining stripes. |
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| Safety stripes complete. I think the end result was definitely worth delaying completion of the model for about an hour. |
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| Time to check coupler height. Looks great on this end... |
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| ...but way too low on the other end. Luckily for me, the bad end is the rear of the car, so I didn't bother trying to fix it. Stay tuned to see if this comes back to bite me later. |
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| It took some force to snap the body onto the underframe, but I'm pleased to report that I didn't break anything in the process. Let's hope I never need to access the car interior, again, though. |
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| Here's the other side of the finished car. I'm excited to finally see this caboose on the layout. |
